All Chef Should Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.
When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.
A Shocking Accolade
The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.
“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Modesty
This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
A Star Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.
It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.
Rising Above the Titans
Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
A Philosophy of Heart
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
A Accomplishment for the Community
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.